Time to make your early Corvette dream come true? Have you been hankering for a piece of rolling hi-power performance art? Early Corvettes (or C1s) are the quintessential old school Corvettes and are easily identified by exposed headlights, rounded curves, and Buck Rogers mid-20th century styling.

They were built from 1953 to 1962 with mostly cosmetic changes, but the small block Chevy V8 blossomed under the hood during this period under the careful tutelage of Zora Arkus-Duntov and Ed Cole. The first in a series, Corvette Online brings you a quick study, buyer’s guide with all the stats you’ll need to know to make an informed decision.

Mid 20th century Chevrolet beauty. C1 Corvettes are voluptuous, simple, and fun. Most have survived and there are many nice cars out there available to a buyer.

Within the C1 family there are four iterations including 1953 to 1955, 1956 to 1957, 1958 to 1961 and 1961 to 1962. We’ll start with an overview of this very simply designed first-generation and how it evolved over the years, and then take a look at what joys and perils await in choosing a early collector Corvette.

Get a good look as from 1953 to 1962 not much changed here other than suspension and brake tweaks. Almost like an apple cart by today’s standards (not really state-of-the-art back in the day), the C1 chassis proved to be serviceable and strong. An A-arm front suspension, X-member frame, and solid rear axle was the the order of the day.

IN THE BEGINNING

The Corvette debuted at the Motorama Auto Show in New York City in 1952. It was one of the first Motorama “dream cars” that entered regular production in post-war Detroit. The first models rolled out of Chevrolet’s Flint, Michigan plant and then, beginning in 1954, production was moved to St. Louis where it remained until 1981.

The fiberglass body was extremely novel in its day and was derived from WWII defense technology where it was used for radar housings. GM was interested in the material because of low tooling costs, its lightweight, corrosion-free characteristics, and ability to form complex shapes.

Owens-Corning was contracted to help build the bodies. The new plastic body combined with a shortened Chevy passenger car X-frame, drum brakes, live rear-axle and a ‘Blue Flame’ six-cylinder became the very first Corvette; it debuted in 1953.

From there it was evolutionary enhancements for almost a decade, which is a long time in car years, but the good part is, getting up to speed on what to look for in buying an example of this era of Corvette is pretty simple across the board.

HERE IS A CHEAT SHEET OF THINGS TO CONSIDER WHEN PURCHASING A C1 CORVETTE

• FRAME RUST – Corvette bodies do not rust but that doesn’t mean their frames don’t. Always insist that any car you’re interested in goes up on a hoist so you can poke around under the body and check for corrosion. Now is the time to check for damage and inspect the frame for evidence of being hit hard in an accident. The suspension is one click above Fred Flintstones’s pedal car but it is easily restored. Check for corrosion and damage here too. While the car is up in the air, also do a visual check on the internal side of body panels.

• CHECK BONDING STRIPS – Corvettes are made like a jigsaw puzzle with many pieces connected by lengths of fiberglass called bonding strips. If a car has been repaired you can easily see where the damaged material was removed. Also, look for smoother finished interior panels as a sign that the car has been involved in an accident. Not really a deal breaker, but important that it was repaired correctly.

• CHECK FITMENT OF DOORS, HOOD, TRUNK, AND BUMPERS -This is a dead giveaway that a car has been repaired. Again, not the end of the world, but to fix a car that was repaired improperly can be expensive.

• CHECK FOR STRESS CRACKS – Fiberglass ages differently than steel and all Corvettes of this era suffer from stress cracks. Look around windshield posts, panel cut-outs and wheelwell lip areas for tell-tale signs of wear-related stress cracks.

• MAKE SURE THE CAR IS COMPLETE AND ORIGINAL AS POSSIBLE – A “matching numbers” car (i.e. VIN and the engine serial number match) is worth roughly 20 to 30-percent more than an altered car. This numbers matching approach was birthed by very anal-retentive National Corvette Restorers Society judges and has been deemed to be the highest integrity a Corvette can have. We agree, but there might be a good buy with a non-matching numbers drivetrain out there that could be a great car to own and enjoy, so don’t let the matching numbers thing scare you. NOS trim on early cars, especially ’53 to ’55 can be tough to find and could be time-consuming to round up. The good news is there is a vast Corvette aftermarket supplier base that would love to help you restore your early Corvette. Also, as a general rule, a color change is a deal breaker for a lot of folks, so find a car that is painted in a factory color that turns you on.

• VERIFY MOTOR AND VIN NUMBERS – This is fairly easy to do. Some research is required to get up to speed on VIN and engine codes, or hire a Vette guru to check it out. Corvette Online has researched the best library of Corvette info for you here.

• GET A USED CAR CHECK– the Corvette is exotic but isn’t immune from mere mortal system checks. Check fluids, do a compression test, check the cooling and electrical systems, brakes, steering linkage, and other common safety items so when you drive home you don’t end up in a ditch. If you can do this yourself, great, if not hire a reputable mechanic; preferably one who is familiar with Corvettes. While you’re at it, check every single light, knob, blinker, speaker, etc., to see what’s working and what isn’t. If you really want to be thorough, you can hire a Vette guru who can give you a detailed report card on the Vette of your dreams. We believe this is money well spent.

• TEST DRIVE – This is a must, and be careful not to let the owner run a monologue about the car as you do your drive. Turn off the radio and take the car on both side roads and the freeway.  Take note of any clunks, smoke, valvetrain noise, or sloppiness in the steering, transmission, or brakes.

• TAKE YOUR TIME – Finally, Chevrolet made almost 70,000 C1 Corvettes! Most have survived. Take your time and look around and don’t buy the first car you see.

• ANTICIPATE OWNERSHIP COSTS – You’ve got to store, insure, and maintain a 60-year old automobile. Create a “cheat sheet” of what your monthly costs will be to participate in the Vette hobby without going broke.

1953 to 1955

These models are easily distinguishable by wire screens on headlights, plastic side-curtains and rocketship taillights. The 1953 to 1954 were available with a gussied-up “Stove Bolt” Chevy 235 ci inline-six cylinder engine with three-side draft Carter carburetors, 150 hp and re-christened the ‘Blue Flame.’ Zora Arkus-Duntov was appointed head Corvette engineer in 1953. It took him two years but he finally got the small block 265 ci V8 in the Corvette for 1955, which are easily spotted by the big “V” side script. All but six ’55 Vettes had the V8 engine.

Where it all began. The 1953 Corvette came in any color you wanted as long as it was Polo White with a red interior. It came equipped with a 235 ci “Blue Flame” six-cyclinder, a solid axle and drum brakes. From this humble beginning, a superstar was waiting to blossom. Ultimately America’s sports car was born with only 300 units being produced that year.

1956 to 1957

These model years between 1956 and 1957 are highly coveted by collectors and are some of the most beautiful Corvettes ever made. Expect to pay top dollar for an original car. Changes for 1956 included new styling with forward thrusting headlights, coved fenders, fake scoops and an all new, smooth rear end styling. A three-speed manual transmission was offered for the first time, along with rollup windows and a hardtop, the interior was a carry-over from the ’53 to ’55 cars.

The introduction of the 283 ci V8 with fuel injection and a four-speed transmission occurred in 1957. Zora Arkus-Duntov’s transformation of the ’53 into a true sports car was complete. Corvette also achieved the magical 1 hp per cubic-inch, allowing the car to go from zero-60 mph in 5.7 seconds and from zero-100 mph in 16.8 seconds.

Pristine, Fuelie models are the Holy Grail of the early Corvette hobby and are priced accordingly. The RPO 684 competition option included heavy-duty springs, shocks, and sway bars, 16.3:1 quick-ratio steering, a Positraction differential, special brake cooling equipment, and Cerametallic brake linings.

1958 to 1960

Late-1950s Corvettes represent the ‘more is more’ period of postwar design and these models gained weight and bling. Styling changes include quad headlamps, more chrome trim and a completely redesigned interior that put all the instruments in front of the driver. The 1958 model is unique as it was the only year of the ‘wash board’ hood and two chrome spears on the trunk lid.

Purists were horrified as these models followed the spare and simple 1957; 1959 and 1960 would see additional “de-blinging” of the car. We love the ’58 model and agree with Harley Earl that chrome should be applied with a trowel. Among the 1958 to 1960 body style the ’58s used to be the bargain cars, but their extra chrome has caught on, making them generally more expensive than the 1959 to 1960 cars.

Cars in 1958 brought quad headlamps, fake louvers and chrome spears down the trunk. This used to be a liability in re-sale but as of late, this one year only trim set up now adds value. All new interior joined five V8 engine options packing as much as 290 hp. A total of 9,168 were produced in 1958.

1961 to 1962

These were the swan song years of solid axle Corvettes. Chevy freshened the car for 1961 by grafting the now famous four taillight design to the rear of the car, foreshadowing the Sting Ray race car based ’63 model. The car continued it’s dechroming by removing the famous tooth grill and replacing it with a more conservative (and cleaner) mesh style.  This was also the last time a contrasting color could be specified for the “coves.” Cars produced for 1962 are considered the cleanest of all post-1958 cars and current prices reflect that distinction. This was the first year for the legendary 327 cubic inch V8 and thin-stripe white wall tires. Production would reach an all-time high for C1 Corvettes at 14,531 units.

A styling refresh, in 1961 featured a 4-taillight rear end and a toothless grille. With seven small block motors available, you could get as much as 315 hp with the fuel-injected 283 mill. Production reached 10,939 units.

WHAT ARE THESE CARS WORTH?

The collector car market fluctuates from year to year and is influenced by the economy and the whims of the hobby.  The best way to ascertain what an early Vette is worth is to find comparable cars for sale that are similar to a car you’re looking for. A keen buyer will scour Craigslist, Hemmings, AutoTrader and other publications to see what cars are bringing.

Joining a Vette club could be a valuable resource as well as a multitude of online forums and chat rooms. The NCRS is a great resource too. As always, keep your eye on Corvette Online as well.

As a general rule, fuel-injected cars bring a premium and also require the most mechanical attention. Competition RPO options like big brakes and big fuel tanks continue to bring a premium.

The quality of the car is the most important factor in determining value, but color and options are critical factors as well. The most valuable 1957 to 1962 option by far is fuel injection. This is especially true of 1957 Corvettes equipped with the four-speed manual. The irony of fuel injection is that when these cars were relatively new to the used car market, many owners discarded the fuel injection systems in favor of an easier-to-tune, smoother-idling, single four-barrel carburetor setup.

There was a time in the 1960s when Rochester fuel injection units and manifolds could be bought dirt cheap. Now, prices start at $5,000 and go up from there. Completeness is very important–piecing together a correct FI system is now ultra-expensive.

Many folks assume that all Corvettes had four-speed manual transmissions. The truth is, many were equipped with three-speed manual transmissions and two-speed Powerglide automatics. The three-speed was the only manual transmission in 1956 and at the start of the 1957 model year. Remember, a four-speed wasn’t introduced until April 1957. As a result of the late availability, only 664 units were sold in this configuration.

In 1958, the first full year of four-speed availability, production rose to 3,764 units. Four-speed popularity continued to rise throughout the C1 era, peaking at 11,318 units in 1962–out of a total production of 14,531 cars.

Any of the high-performance or racing-related options such as metallic brakes, heavy-duty suspension, and extra-capacity gas tanks are highly desirable. Power windows, the power folding convertible top, and the auxiliary hardtop are all value-enhancing options.

The various shades of red (1956 to 1957 Venetian Red appears almost orange) and black are popular leaders on the color chart. Only 65 cars were painted Inca Silver in 1957–with 193 in 1958–and Cascade Green appeared on a mere 140 Corvettes in 1960, making them the most rare colors. Approximately 15,000 Corvettes manufactured between 1956 and 1962 were white.

Ultimately, the goal is to take your time, exercise due diligence either by researching online, talking to Corvette club members, or hiring an expert to suss out good cars from bad ones. Bottom line: the hunt is almost as fun as the catch.